Consider the pasta-bilities!

Remember when pasta was pretty much spaghetti and elbow macaroni?

Now we have rigatoni and bow-tie and cavatelli and manicotti and fettuccine and paccheri and ... well you get the idea. One website I found listed 35 types of Italian pasta. There are long pastas and short pastas and stretched pastas and filled pastas and soup pastas. And that's just from Italy. So. Much. To. Know.

But for the purposes of this column, let's go back to the basics: Dried or fresh? Do you use cooked or uncooked pasta in recipes? How does your chosen sauce affect your choice of pasta shapes?

Lets start with dried or fresh. Honestly, that's your choice. You can't beat dried pasta for convenience and it's easy to stock your pantry with various types.

When it comes to deciding whether a recipe calls for cooked or uncooked pasta, if the recipe doesn't specify, look at the amount and cooking directions. When a recipe lists two cups of pasta, mostly likely it means dry pasta. Because two cups of cooked pasta wouldn't go very far in a casserole recipe for example.

Beyond that, the directions should tell you to "cook according to package directions," or something similar. Also, if instructions for fully cooking the pasta are listed, it means dry pasta is used.

But how do you know what kind to use? According to TV host, cookbook author and chef Sara Moulton, pasta comes in all sizes and shapes, all of them designed with a purpose. Pastas in long strands - including spaghetti and linguine - are best paired with smoother sauces. Tube-shaped pastas - such as penne, rigatoni and macaroni - team up well with chunky sauces. And pasta boasting nooks and crannies - like fusilli - are perfect for sauces with bits of meat and vegetables.

When it comes to cooking pasta another common questions is whether the water should be salted or not. The answer is yes, it should be salted. And use enough so the water tastes salty. That' pretty easy.

Why salt the water? Because it seasons the pasta, adding flavor to the dish it's used in. Also, it's always recommended to reserve some of the pasta cooking water to add to, if using, a sauce. That reserved pasta water will all help season the sauce and because the water has starch from the pasta, it will also help thicken the sauce if need be.

What is the best way to refrigerate cooked pasta? And how long will it last? Food writer Susan Selasky offers these suggestions:

Store plain (no sauce or other ingredients) cooked pasta in a container or plastic sealable bag in the refrigerate for up to five days and up to three months in the freezer.

If you plan on cooking more pasta than you need or cooking it ahead of time to use in recipes where it will be reheated, it's a good idea to slightly under-cook the pasta.

Once the pasta is cooked, drain it well in a colander.

Before storing, make sure the cooked pasta isn't really hot when you add it to the plastic bag. And once you do put it in the bag, don't seal it. Wait a few more minutes until the pasta is cooled. Before sealing or covering with a lid, drizzle the pasta with a little olive oil, which prevents it from clumping together.

If freezing, it's a good idea to store the pasta in portion sizes you will use.

Other tips and tricks

— Pasta should never wait for the sauce (once cooked, it doesn’t improve with age), so don’t start cooking it until your sauce is either well along or finished.

— For cooking times, read the packaging and follow the suggested times. But don’t follow them blindly. It’s also important to check the tenderness of the pasta while it is cooking. All you have to do is spear a single piece and bite into it. If it’s very chewy or tough, keep cooking it. If there’s just a tiny bit of chewiness, it’s ready to be drained.

— Before you drain it, scoop out and set aside a little of the cooking liquid. And don’t rinse your pasta after draining it. That washes away the starch, which is what helps your sauce stick to the pasta. Now just add your pasta to the sauce, where it will finish cooking. And if your sauce is too thick, a few tablespoons of the cooking water you scooped out are just the thing.

Fusilli with Italian Sausage, Peas and Creamy Tomato Sauce

Start to finish: 1 hour (30 minutes active)

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 cup finely chopped yellow onion

1 tablespoon minced garlic

3/4 pound loose sweet or hot Italian sausage

28-ounce can crushed tomatoes (preferably fire-roasted)

2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided

2/3 cup heavy cream

12 ounces fusilli pasta

2 cups frozen peas, thawed

3 ounces finely grated Parmesan cheese, divided

Shredded fresh basil, to garnish

In a large saucepan or stockpot, bring 6 quarts of water to a boil.

While the water is heating, in a large skillet over medium, heat the oil. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic, and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the sausage and cook, breaking it up with a spoon and stirring, until the sausage is just cooked through, about 5 minutes.

Add the tomatoes and 1 teaspoon of salt. Bring the mixture to a boil and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes. Add the cream and simmer for 2 minutes.

Meanwhile, add the 2 tablespoons of salt and the pasta to the pot of water. Stir well and boil the pasta, following the instructions on the back on the package, until almost but not quite al dente. Drain the pasta, reserving 1 cup of the pasta cooking water, and add it to the skillet, along with the peas and half of the cheese.

Simmer until the pasta is al dente, adding some of the pasta cooking water if necessary to thin the sauce to desired consistency. Season with salt and pepper, then divide between 4 serving bowls. Top each portion with some of the remaining cheese and the basil.

Makes 4 servings.

Nutrition information per serving: 1,040 calories; 510 calories from fat (49 percent of total calories); 56 g fat (24 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 140 mg cholesterol; 96 g carbohydrate; 12 g fiber; 18 g sugar; 40 g protein; 2,360 mg sodium.

Recipe from: Sara Moulton

This easy Angry Sicilian Pasta is perfect for nights when you don’t want to do much cooking.

It’s from Michele Scicolone’s “The Italian Vegetable Cookbook” ($30, Houghton Mifflin Harcourt), a collection of 200 recipes from Italian farmers, produce markets, chefs and her own grandparents for classic antipasti, soups, pasta, main dishes and desserts. Her recipes are uncomplicated but delicious, and include both classic and imaginative new Italian dishes.

The “angry” in the dish’s title refers to the inclusion of crushed red pepper.

‘Angry’ Sicilian Pasta

2 large, ripe tomatoes, chopped

1/2 cup shredded fresh basil

1/4 cup capers, rinsed and patted dry

1/4 cup chopped fresh spearmint

2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano

1 garlic clove, grated or minced

1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper

1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Salt

1 pound bow-tie pasta

1/2 cup freshly grated pecorino

In a large serving bowl, toss together the tomatoes, basil, capers, mint, oregano, garlic, red pepper and olive oil. Add salt to taste. (The sauce can be made up to 1 hour ahead of time. Cover and let stand at room temperature.)

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta, stir well, and cook, stirring frequently, until al dente.

Scoop out some of the cooking water and reserve. Drain the pasta. Add the pasta to the bowl, with a little of the reserved cooking water if needed, and toss well.

Add the cheese and toss again. Serve hot or warm.

Makes 6 servings.

Nutritional information per serving: 426 calories (33 percent from fat), 15 g fat (2.8 g saturated, 9 g monounsaturated), 7 mg cholesterol, 12.5 g protein, 58 g carbohydrate, 4 g fiber, 260 mg sodium.

Recipe from: “The Italian Vegetable Cookbook” by Michele Scicolone.

Penne with Broccoli, Sun-Dried Tomatoes and Dijon Cream

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Total time: 30 minutes

1 large clove garlic, peeled, minced

1/4 cup Dijon mustard

1 cup fat-free or regular half-and-half

8 ounces (about 2 cups) penne pasta or favorite short pasta

1-1/2 cups broccoli florets

1/3 cup sun-dried tomatoes, sliced

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/4 cup shredded or shaved Parmesan cheese

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley, optional

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

Meanwhile, place the garlic in a large, heatproof serving bowl that will fit partially in the pot. Add the mustard to the bowl and whisk in the half-and-half. Set aside or place over the pasta pot to warm while the water is heating. Once the water begins to boil, remove the bowl.

Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook until it is al dente, according to package directions. About 2 minutes before the pasta is done, add the broccoli florets and sun-dried tomatoes. Cook 2 more minutes. Remove 2 cups of the cooking water. Drain the pasta and broccoli and tomatoes. Place the cooking water back in the pot and leave on low heat.

Set the heatproof bowl with the mustard sauce over the pot with the remaining pasta water. Add the pasta mixture and toss to coat and heat through. Drizzle with the olive oil and add the cheese. Toss again to coat and heat through.

Garnish with a grinding of black pepper and a sprinkling of parsley before serving.

Makes 4 servings.

Nutritional information per serving: 320 calories (20 percent from fat), 7 g fat (2 g saturated fat), 51 g carbohydrates, 12 g protein, 437 mg sodium, 6 mg cholesterol, 2 g fiber.

Recipe from: Susan Selasky, Detroit Free Press

Lemon Spaghetti

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Total time: 30 minutes

2/3 cup olive oil

2/3 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1/2 cup fresh lemon juice (from about 2 large lemons)

3/4 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste

1 pound dried spaghetti

1/3 cup chopped fresh basil

1 tablespoon grated lemon zest (from about 2 lemons)

In a large bowl, whisk together the oil, Parmesan cheese, lemon juice, 3/4 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Set the lemon sauce aside.

(The sauce can be made up to 8 hours ahead. If you do so, cover and refrigerate it, then bring it back to room temperature before you use it.)

Meanwhile, place the spaghetti in a large skillet and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil and cook, while stirring, until the pasta is tender but still firm to the bite, about 8 minutes. Most of the water will absorb.

Drain the spaghetti, reserving any cooking liquid in the skillet.

Add the spaghetti to the lemon sauce and toss it with the basil and lemon zest.

Add reserved cooking liquid to moisten it.

Season the pasta with more salt and pepper to taste.

Transfer it to bowls and serve.

Makes 4 main-dish or 6 side-dish servings.

Nutritional information per serving: 532 calories (48 percent from fat), 29 g fat (5 g saturated fat), 54 g carbohydrates, 14 g protein, 516 mg sodium, 9 mg cholesterol, 197 mg calcium, 3 g fiber.

Recipe adapted from: “Everyday Italian” by Giada De Laurentiis (Clarkson Potter, $30)

Terri Hahn of Osceola has worked in food media for more than 30 years and has won numerous state and national awards for her writing. Email her at [email protected].