Build a better burger

I recently heard somewhere that burgers cooked in a cast iron skillet on the stovetop are better than burgers cooked on a grill.

I’m not buying it. The “experts” say a skillet allows the patties to baste in their own juices as they cook and that’s a huge improvement over losing all-important moisture to the spatters that cause annoying grilling flare-ups.

OK, that part I can get behind (and I’ll file the info for non-grilling season), but I still think burgers cooked on a grill are a summer treat that can’t be denied.

But there are steps to take to make sure that your grilled burger is the best it can be. Here are some tips and tricks I’ve picked up over the years.

Burger basics

Let’s start with the burger itself. For purposes of this article, we’re sticking to beef. Turkey burgers, chicken burgers, veggie burgers, etc., all have their place. It’s just not here.

When it comes to hamburgers, chuck is king. Chuck comes from the shoulder of the cow. It is a fatter and tougher cut of meat and it used to be cheap when beef in general was cheap.

Fat equals flavor, so meat with higher fat content tends to produce tastier burgers. This is not the place for 90% lean ground beef. Most experts recommend ground chuck that’s 80% lean, 20% fat. If 75% is available, grab it. Ground chuck makes a better burger than ground sirloin, but if you are watching fat grams, go with the latter. Condiments can make up for a lot.

Look for meat that has been freshly ground. Most major grocery stores have high turnover of inventory, so you’re usually assured of fresh meat. Select meat that is bright pink. Form your own burgers rather than buy preformed; the less handling the better. Plus, it’s cheaper.

Next, make sure it’s cold and always mix the meat gently so it just comes together. Do not over mix. If you over mix the meat, the meat will be more compact and not as tender.

If you choose to season your meat, salt and pepper are really all you need. But don’t let the seasoned meat sit too long. Weber’s website recommends 1 teaspoon kosher salt and 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper for each 1-1/2 pound of ground beef. You can mix it in the meat or sprinkle on the outside of the formed patties. If you do the latter, Weber advises to refrigerate the patties for 30 minutes or less to allow the seasoning to distribute. If you let it sit longer the salt will draw moisture out of the meat.

Plan on a burger that is 6 ounces before cooking. Match the size of the patty with the bun. Figure there will be shrinkage, so shape the patty about 1/2-inch larger than the bun. Generally, a 4-inch in diameter patty, with a dimple in the center, that is at least 3/4-inch thick will suffice.

Now for the dimple. Yes, a dimple. This is a trick I learned just a couple of years ago. This is an easy step and not to be skipped. Once the patty is formed, use the back of a spoon or your thumb to make an indentation, about 1/3-inch deep and 1-inch wide in the center of the patty. When the burgers cook, the indentation slowly rise and you get a nice, flat even top.

Why the dimple? If you don’t do this, the burgers will puff up like a tennis ball. If it’s shaped like a tennis ball, it’s harder to get it cooked evenly, the burgers won’t fit the bun and you end up with a top bun that slides off. That also means you’ll be eating more bun than burger with each bite.

Now for the grill

Burgers like high heat. This helps form that exterior crust. Cook them on the non-dimpled side first over direct heat. Once a crust develops, flip them over and cook on the other side. Do not press down on the burger. When you do this, you’re beating up that poor burger and pressing all the juices out.

How long your grill them depends on how you like them done. Ground beef can be especially susceptible to bacterial contamination, so the United States Department of Agriculture safe internal cooking temperature for ground beef is 160 degrees F. That means it’s well done.

Burgers cook quickly on the grill. Once the grill is hot, place the burgers on the grate and leave the cover off. Four-ounce burgers will be cooked to medium in 11 to 13 minutes; flip them a couple of times during grilling to prevent charring. Six-ounce burgers take 13 to 15 minutes.

Cooking time will also depend on the thickness of the burger — but generally at least 5 minutes per side. If you like it at less done than that and depending on the thickness, figure about 3 minutes per side for medium-rare or 130 to 135 degrees F and 150 to 155 degrees F for medium-well.

Invest in a barbecue fork with a thermometer built in or an instant-read meat thermometer. At 160 degrees, the meat should be slightly pink in the middle; in cooking terms, that means medium well.

Try to turn them only a couple of times and for Pete’s sake, don’t keep smashing them down with the spatula. All that accomplishes is smashing fat out of the burger and does two things: you lose moistness from the burger and all that fat can cause flare-ups.

Finishing touches

For a bun, you can go standard. Or pick a potato roll, brioche, rye or pretzel bun: No matter what you choose, butter the insides and throw it on the grill. Your burger deserves it.

From there it’s up to you. I’m not going to tell you what to use (or what not to use) on you burger. While I’m usually a bacon cheeseburger fan, I think grilled burgers need only ketchup and pickles. If I do go the bacon cheeseburger route, it’s with ketchup, mustard and dill pickle slices. Lots of dill pickle slices. But no mayo. Mayo has it’s place but that place is not on my burgers.

“Classic” burgers, by definition, include cheese (American or cheddar), crisp iceberg lettuce and a just ripe summer tomato, plus ketchup, mustard and (in my opinion, that dreaded) mayo.

That said, don’t be afraid to branch out and try something new from time to time. You might surprise yourself and find a new favorite.

Classic Cheeseburger

2 pounds ground beef, preferably chuck

2 teaspoons salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 ounces cheddar or Monterey Jack, sliced 1/4-inch thick

4 hamburger buns

2 tomatoes (12 ounces), sliced

8 leaves Bibb lettuce (1 small head)

1 small red onion, sliced

Heat a grill or grill pan to medium high. Season meat with salt and pepper, mix very lightly and shape into four patties. Grill hamburgers 4 to 6 minutes per side for rare and 9 to 11 minutes for well done. If making cheeseburgers, lay cheese slices on top of the hamburgers after they have been flipped.

Serve immediately on buns (toasted, if desired), topped with tomatoes, lettuce and onion slices.

Makes 4 servings.

Recipe from: Martha Stewart

Terri Hahn of Osceola has worked in food media for more than 30 years and has won numerous state and national awards for her writing. Email her at [email protected]